Hermann Buhl - Hermann Burr: The Gritty Hero

Hermann Buhl - Hermann Buhl

He is a legendary person because he always succeeds in the failure of others.

When he first boarded the Rakhiot route in Nanja Parbat in 1953, he spent the night on a small platform over 8,000 meters, then spent 41 hours in the hallucinations and climbed down the hill. It looks 10 years old. This climb is considered a great feat in the history of mountaineering.

Four years later, at Brolotte, he and his partner showed people the 8,000-meter-high mountains. In fact, they did not need large teams and mountain guides. Buhl walked slowly because he was injured in Nanga Parbat. So he asked the teamed Kurt Diemberger to team up with Wintersteller and Schmuck. All three climbed to the top. When Dimberger ascended down, he was amazed to discover that Buhl was still climbing. He recalled: "Hermann step by step, slowly upwards, it's 6:30. It's time to go to the summit and it must be crazy." Diemberger was Moved, accompanied Buhl and went to the summit "where I experienced the real meaning of life."

A few days later, they went to try again. Near the top of Chogolisa, he dropped a sledge and was killed. Even today Kurt Diemberger still feels very sorry: "It's too unpleasant. My friend disappeared instantly. I can't believe that people like him who personally passed Nanga Parbat will be killed here. When I went down, too. Uncomfortable."

Mountaineering experience:
Badile North East Wall (single player)
Watzmann East Wall (single, winter)
Eiger North Face
Nanga Parbat (first boarding, 41-hour single-person climb from C5)
Broad Peak (First Board)
Chogolisa (daughter)

A legend among many climbers, by taking vast risks Hermann Buhl succeeded where others failed.

Soloed the final stage on Nanga Parbats Rakhiot Route during the first ascent in 1953, spent the night above 8,000 metres on a tiny ledge, finally returning to the camp after 41 hours he was hallucinating and crawling downwards, looking 10 years older. This climb is Now regarded as one of the greatest mountaineering feats of all time.

Four years later, on Broad Peak, he and his partners showed that a 8,000 metre mountain could be climbed without a large team and porters. Buhl was suffering badly from the injuries he got on Nanga Partbat and was ascending extremely much during the last section, He sent his rope-companion, Kurt Diemberger ahead to catch up with the other rope-team, Wintersteller and Schmuck, they reached the summit together.

While descending Dimberger found it surprising that Buhl was still ascending. - "Hermann kept coming up, slowly, step by step, his face drawn, his eyes straight ahead. It was close on half past six. Surely it was madness to go on to The summit now?". Diemberger, spellbound by Buhls determination, accompanied him back to the summit. - "ahead of us gleamed a radiance, enfolding every wish life could conjure, enfolding life itself. Now was the moment of ineffable truth... This was utter fulfillment... There we stood, speechless, and shook hands in silence. We looked down at the snow underfoot, and to our amazement it seemed to be aglow. Then the light went out."

Some days later they attempted Chogolisa, but it was Buhls last mountain, near the summit he fell through a cornice to his death.

Today, Kurt Diemberger, himself a legend, still finds it hard to talk about the accident: - "It was a terrible experience because all of a sudden my friend had disappeared.... and ya... I could never believe that something Like this could ever happen to Hermann Buhl. He had just climbed Nanga Parbat solo and... ...It was a very, very hard way down Chogolisa."

This was by far Buhls only famous climbs, since a young boy he had always taken himself to the limit and had made a lot of spectacular climbs in the Alps, often solo, being a breath away from death. Reading his biography, Nanga Parbat Pilgrimage You can almost read between the lines what was waiting for him in the end - and he knew it!

SELECTED CLIMBS

Mattherhorn (traverse, solo)
Badile North East Wall (solo)
Watzmann East Wall (first solo, first winter ascent)
Eiger North Face
Nanga Parbat (first ascent. 41 hours solo push from camp V)
Broad Peak (first ascent)
Chogolisa (fell through a cornice near the summit)

Badile Peak

Watzmann peak


Chogolisa Peak

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