Secure Technology (from pages 145-150)
Belaying is a system that uses ropes to stop slipping and is the cornerstone of a safe climb. Make sure that technology is magically magical, but like magic, it must be skillful to play well. At the same time, it must have a basic understanding of the principle of ensuring.
The easiest way to ensure technology is to use a climbing rope that connects the climber and another climber, who is sure to be ready to brake. Make sure that the technology requires three key points to take effect: a technically well-behaved person (Belayer), a posture that can withstand pull-down forces, or a point of securing, and a method of slipping off the brakes. There are many ways to slip off the brakes, such as using different postures, mounting points, and knots to ensure points. This chapter will introduce the main guarantee skills and ensure the choice of technology.
Ensure technical points
Basic ropes ensure
Let's say you go mountain climbing with me and go hiking with a climbing rope and other equipment to the foot of a mountain in the local area, facing the precipice of the cliff, and occasionally see the broken rock edge. We tied the fly heads and rope tails together. You climb up the cliff, drag rope behind you, and I watch it on the side. When the climbing rope is about to run out, you stop on the edge of a rock and there is a tree a few feet away.
When you climb up the cliff, you take a lot of risk. In case you fall, you will fall back to the starting point of climbing. I can only watch you fall, and I can't help you. Later in this article will discuss how to reduce the risk of climbing. At present, I will explain the next step: think of a way for me to safely climb to your side to prevent a serious fall.
So you wrap the belt around the trunk, hook the shackles, pass the climbing rope through the shackles, leaving enough length between the knots and shackles that connect the harness so that you can comfortably sit on the edge, even Stand against your feet. The rope is looped from the strap on the safety harness to the left side of the body and the shackle. At this moment you have set up a sure point.
Now you pull up the sagging rope until the rope is completely pulled; my body feels the pull of the rope and yells: “pull me!†or send out other pre-assigned signals. Next you will pass the rope around your back and grab the rope with your right palm facing up; remember that you pull the slack rope between you and your body. The rope will bypass you from right to left and right. The back or hips pass over the ropes that connect you and make sure you ask (Fig. 7-1a). The right hand is called The Braking Hand and the left hand is called The Feeling Hand.
Now you shout: "Be sure to finish" and tell me I can start climbing. The two people can also use different signals as the signal, or if you start climbing, if you fall, in the event of a fall, just shout: “Fall!†You can stop me from falling and I can start climbing again. climb.
How to stop me from falling? I shouted "fallen!" You grasp the rope with your brakes, and you can just use the Braking Position (Fig. 7-lb). As the rope circumvents the body and generates friction, the force with which you grasp the rope increases, so the upward force (or resistance) imposed on me by the rope is greater than your hand. The braking position - the right arm is transverse to the front of the abdomen - aims to increase the friction between the rope and your body, thereby increasing resistance.
Figure 7-1
a. The rope is passed from the right hand to the right and left around the back or buttocks. Since you tied it, you can make sure that the rope between the points passes over it.
b. Brake position - The purpose of the right arm crossing the abdomen is to increase the friction between the rope and your body, thereby increasing resistance.
In case I fall, your brakes just leave the rope for a while? Very simple: I will fall deeper, perhaps falling all the way to the bottom of the cliff. However, the technically savvy ensurer never leaves the brakes off the rope. There is a specific sequence of hand movements (Fig. 7-2). You take the rope when I climb, so this is ruled out. The specific order is: grasp the rope with both hands, keep the hand close to the body, guide the hand out, use the brake hand to take in the rope (Figure 7-2a), then guide the hand out, grab the two strands of rope, and finally, The brake slides back (Figure 7-2c) and guides the hand to release the brake rope. If it repeats, the brake does not need to leave the rope at all.
Now let's talk about other features of this approach and the purpose of this arrangement. Why link yourself to ensure points? Because you can resist the downward pulling force, the hand can exert friction and generate upward force (resistance) on me. It's usually your weight and your posture - your feet are against a fixed point - so you can resist downward pull. However, if I weigh more than you, or if the rock wall is sloping downwards, there is no place to hold it against the feet. If you don't tie at the sure point, you will be completely pulled down.
Now consider your posture. You back to ensure that the point is roughly parallel to the direction of force. This posture can remain stable, and if the falling force is great, you will not shake vigorously and lose your sure function. You can also take a sitting posture with triangles between your feet and hips. The rope reaches the climber between the legs—I. If the foot can find the footing point, it can form a very stable posture, can withstand a great pulling force without being pulled down or lose its balance, so it protects the sure point - that is, avoid any force applied to the sure point, so as to ensure the point Can support your posture.
The method of ensuring that you have just described - applying friction to the rope to stop the fall - is called the "Hip Belay" (or body assurance method). In fact, there are many ways to use the friction force of the ropes, and the methods are better. The article will continue to be discussed later. At this point, we have understood the elements to ensure: the method of applying friction to the rope to stop the fall, the method of not releasing the brake when the rope is collected, the method of not changing the braking posture, the method of ensuring the point and the connecting point, and the system of communication.
Figure 7-2 Hand movements to take rope; the brakes do not leave the rope
Stop falling
Continue to further discuss how you fell when you pulled me up. This kind of force is no different from everyday life. Try to use a rope to tie a five kilogram (ten pounds) weight, grab a rope a few meters away from the weight, lift the weight a few centimeters from the ground. The heavy object exerts a pull down force on the rope, and you give it the same power to pull it up.
Is this the same situation where you pull me with a rope, but I fall? Not at all, because the resistance of the former was immediately generated, but when I fell, the rope began to stretch, and there was no resistance at the beginning. Therefore, I fell straight down and grew faster and faster in a few seconds. Then the rope is stretched again, you grasp the rope and no longer put the rope. When the resistance increases to the maximum, the speed at which I fall slows down. If I am on the vertical rock wall, the maximum resistance should be twice that of my weight. Wait until I stop. Hanging down in the air does not move, the resistance dropped to about the same weight as me. It all happened in a matter of seconds.
Assuming that you can weigh up to 18 kilograms (40 pounds) of tension with ropes, but the ropes increase friction after bypassing the body, you can withstand 11 to 160 kilos (250 to 350 lbs). Pulling force. When I was falling, the force you actually exerted was not that great. You only exercised enough power to stop me from falling, but you must understand that even if it is a simple fall, the force exerted must be greater than my weight.
Return to the example of lifting a five-kilogram weight with a rope, but add a little change: You hold your hands tightly to the rope, ask someone to lift the weight and let it go. When the weight falls to the end, the moment the rope is pulled straight produces a huge pulling force, which is greater than lifting the weight with a rope; your hand will be pulled so drooping that even a few centimeters of rope slides out of your hand.
The situation of climbing is also very similar. Assume that I climb faster than you collect the rope. You and I have not noticed that the rope between the two is slack. If I fall at this time, the speed of falling will be faster before the rope pulls me, and the maximum downward force will be greater than before—assuming you have not slipped the rope by one minute.
What if the tension is too large and the rope starts to slip? Will I fall all the way back to the bottom of the valley and both of your palms have been peeled off? will not. As long as you continue to clench the rope and apply more pull than my weight, I will slowly stop and hang in midair. This can only be considered a great fortune. The deeper I fall, the more likely I am to be injured by an impact. Even if I am unscathed, I may be scared.
Protecting the lead
Now that we understand the elements of assurance, it seems that we can climb all the way to the top. If one side falls, the other can quickly stop the fall. Wait! What about the first pitch (leader)? You climb up and I look below. If you fall, I can only watch you fall to the ground. Now it's my turn to set up a second pitch (the second guarantee point). I don't like this method. I believe you don't like to play head-firsts because the situation is even more dangerous now. I may have crashed halfway and crashed. I fell to the rock next to you and I was injured. I first hit the edge of the rock and then fell, or I fell directly without hitting the edge of the rock. We'd better find a good way to put an end to this possibility.
Make sure that the technology starts to become more complex. Of course you can do as sure as before, but you may turn your face to face the wall so that I can climb. This assurance did not prevent me from falling back into the rock formations, but if I did not hit the rock formations and fell directly, your assurance or permission would stop my fall, but nobody dared to pack the votes. This kind of crash is very serious and has many problems. If you choose the wrong hand as a brake, the rope may completely loosen around your body. When I fall to the foot of the mountain, your hand is broken. Or you just stand when I fall, and a strong pull will instantly pull you off the rock. Even if you have evaded these problems, but the tension reaches 160 kilos (350 lbs), the rope will begin to slip out of your hands and bypass your back, causing serious bruising.
There is a way to reduce the risk of this fall, that is, when I am climbing, I need to place rocks as a protection point (see Chapters 10 and 11 for more details). I carry a lot of climbing equipment: shackles, belt loops, and securing devices that can be placed in the cracks—Chocks. Suppose I set a sure point after climbing nine meters (30 feet). Use a tree or crack to put in the rock, fix the band on the trunk or rock, pass the climbing rope through the shackle and link it with the band. Continue climbing.
Suppose I climbed another three meters (ten feet) and fell, waiting for you to make sure that my fall was stopped. I only fell six meters (twenty feet) in total (Figure 7-3). Regardless of which hand you use to make the brakes, the rope will not slip around your body because the pull on you is upward. Before I reach the next secure point, I can set several relays to ensure the points. As soon as I fell, the distance to fall was twice that of my nearest securing point, and then your assurance began to work.
The severity of the fall and the difficulty in stopping the fall depended on my weight, the point at which the rope passed through the rock to ensure the point and the friction generated by the obstacles (the greater the friction, the easier it was to stop the fall), and whether it hit the rock wall. The severity of the crash also depends strongly on the "Fall Factor", which means the distance between the fall and the length of the rope between the assurer and the climber. If I fall from the nearest three meters above the guarantee point, the length of the rope between you and me is twelve meters. As shown in Figure 7-3, I will fall six meters before I stop. The drop distance is divided by the length of the rope to obtain the drop factor, so dividing three by six yields a drop factor of five. The higher the fall factor, the greater the fall force. Although common sense tells us, the fall distance itself will not affect the maximum drop force. (However, the length of time that the distance actually affects the impact of the fall force is short or long.) (See Chapter 11 for details on the fall factor.)
If the leader falls, it can be used to ensure that the fall is effectively prevented. In this case, put more guarantee points, and all the problems have not been solved? Unfortunately, things are counterproductive and it is important to remember that only the risk of falling over the rock-steps can be mitigated; this drop has a drop factor of two and is the most serious. The reason that the risk of falling cannot be completely ruled out is that the quality of the rock to ensure the point is unreliable, sometimes it is not strong enough, it is pulled out when it falls, or I have not had time to place it to make sure that the point has fallen, perhaps from three meters above you come down. This fall, which is six meters away and has a coefficient of two, is as serious as the fall, which has a distance of thirty meters and a coefficient of two.
Therefore, we must consider that, as a surety, you may have to take upward pull or pull down strongly. Not all leaders with guaranteed points are easily stopped when they fall, so ensuring the point, ensuring the posture, and ensuring the method—increasing the grip on the rope—is extremely important. These important points are described below.
Compilation proofreader special note: This article is compiled from the Taiwan version of "Mountaineering Bible", content for the mountain friends reference, not for commercial use. Hereby inform.
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